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Thread: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

  1. #16
    Member test hafast's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    Ill Drink, I appreciate the advice, just too excited about having money to spend on a car, ya know.

    - - - Updated - - -

    gonna be my 6th civic, 5th that drove......
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    Eddie @ The Power Centre Installations

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  2. #17
    I'm a HATER! test MiniD1CK5's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    Quote Originally Posted by Tremblay View Post
    http://honda-tech.com/

    http://www.team-integra.net/

    Read... read until your eyes bleed... then you will know the way

    Keep in mind that a 250whp NA build will most likely cost you $5000 for parts, machine work and extras, plus $800 for a professional tune...

    But a 200HP B18C1/C5 will actually be street drivable, cost you a few grand and be swapped in a weekend. And is a WAYYYYY better starting platform to become boosted.
    276whp on a b series cost someone on this forum over 10,000$ so if you're set on 250whp n/a I have bad news for you bud. Sleeve the b20 and put the 1.6 head on it with some 9.5:1 slugs decent rods and a stock crank through on the gt2871 I have and you make 300 on pump no problem. You say you want better revability over the stock crank, what are you think of pulling it too 14krpm?! The stock crank will go well over 11k its the valve train that won't, you need to go full roller rockers and inconel valves with titanium springs.
    Last edited by MiniD1CK5; 03-23-2015 at 08:31 PM.
    FUNCTION >FORM

    Randy Probst's take on the BRZ "it's like a BMW and a Lotus had a baby"

    "Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." -Colin Chapman

    "He who shall be last, shall be sideways and smiling"

  3. #18
    Member test hafast's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    Shouldn't doubt how thrifty I can be. heh.
    Twitch = Hafast_Tactics

    Eddie @ The Power Centre Installations

    OCOT: 14025146

  4. #19
    Senior Member test Tremblay's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    ^Going to be hard to convince us when 12 hours ago you wanted to drop $600 on a useless aftermarket crankshaft that wouldn't make you any faster.

    The old saying goes: Fast - Reliable - Cheap ... Pick two. Cheap might be fast for a while, but when you blow up you will spend even more building it right.

    You think people just buy the expensive name brand things because they have the money to blow? 99% of the time... no

    I can say myself I am very "thrifty" ... but when it comes to aftermarket modification, especially with your goals. you cant be.

    Show me your dyno numbers @250hp, run the car for a year every day, then add up what it cost you... I guarantee it will be many thousands more than you think it will be right now.

    200 wheel would be lots to squeeze out of a B20 with a B16 head... 250 is a lot.
    ALL THE HONDAS!!!

  5. #20
    Senior Member test Curtis_conway's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    Just want to hang out here guys.....don't mind me.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1DFCZDJ9zGM
    Not bad for a civic eh? So the first round cost him 10g's he was happy, him and the civic were going to take down everyone in Thunder Bay...heck were talking about a high hp civic so why couldn't he?
    So he gets a couple runs ins and has as couple problems so back to Milwaukee for some warranty work.....this time it costs only 5 grand but heck that's nothing for a high powered civic.
    So the car gets probably 10 runs in, it goes 12's and blows up....game over car has sat for 10 years.

    But.....your not this guy,you might have better luck
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x_pWBdZJK8I
    Sorry it has sat for 5years
    Last edited by Curtis_conway; 03-24-2015 at 05:46 AM.

  6. #21
    Senior Member test squarebit's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    What a bargain! Only $1500 for each run?!? SIGN ME UP!

  7. #22
    Senior Member test Curtis_conway's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    I'm actually pumped about this thread, at least someone is wanting to do something.....cool just please don't talk about head lights

  8. #23
    Member test hafast's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    I got it before I made this that it is not going to be cheap, I have things set in place to be able to use as much oem stuff as possible before going big. The Build so far is JUST the bottom end only.

    My Thoughts on the new crank though, it is cheaper to get an aftermarket crank that is balanced and lightweight already than to get the stock crank balanced polished and lightened, no? I'm looking to get this to rev better than a CRV. B20vtec says upgrade the rod bolts and bearings, I have changed my parts list a bit already but like I said at the beginning I haven't anything other than the engine at this point. Steps that will be going on soon though. Got to get started because it is getting warmer.

    Check the block at r&r
    Bore over by .5
    have them install the LSV kit

    Put the block on the stand.

    No I will not talk about Head Lights, Car will remain Visually Stock, Maybe some rims, I learned from my 92 SI that was Rusty and faded paint that it doesnt matter how it looks, if you blow the doors off everyone.

    Question about r&r, should I just leave the engine whole and have them deal with it or break it down to just the block?

    The cost to check is approximately what?
    Last edited by hafast; 03-24-2015 at 07:39 AM.
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    Eddie @ The Power Centre Installations

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  9. #24
    Senior Member test squarebit's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    If your plan is to assemble it yourself, there's some merit to disassembling it yourself.

  10. #25
    Senior Member test Tremblay's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    You don't need a lighter/balanced crank for your build. Honda cranks are balanced from factory. If you want a higher revving engine just buy a b18c

    Anyways... If you are set on your B20, these are your next steps.

    Bring in your block to R&R before you order any parts. No point of buying anything if you aren't 100% sure it can be used. Get them to check the deck and if all the cylinders are clean and ready to be bored .020 over... Then order your Pistons, rods, bearings. And golden eagle lsv kit.

    Then bring it back to them with your Pistons, rods and bearings and have them bore it. They need your Pistons to bore it correctly.

    Give them all your ring gaps and piston to wall clearances and they will build it accordingly... There are different ring gaps and ptw clearance numbers for boost compared to NA.

    Then get new valve seals ordered and bring your head in to get the deck checked, valves checked, and valve job if it needs.

    You can install the LSV kit yourself if you can use a tap.

    Then order a new oem water pump and timing belt, and head studs... Torque to spec

    Then you have an engine.

    Checking, machining, and building of the head and block will run probably $1200-$1600 as a rough guess.

    Read the last few pages of my thread... I started with a stock B18B block I pulled out of an Integra, had all the machine work done and built a new bottom end for boost. Basically exactly what you are doing.

    Bring the machine shop the bare block with just the crank in it when they chek it. Anything else they have to take off will cost you extra for their labour. And it's fun and fairly easy to take one apart. They need to clean it before it gets any machine work, so clean it the best you can before you even bring it in.

    When you bring them the head take everything off of it besides the valves and springs... Cams out, "rockers", all sensors off, vtec solenoid.. Everything that can.
    Last edited by Tremblay; 03-24-2015 at 09:31 AM.
    ALL THE HONDAS!!!

  11. #26
    I'm a HATER! test MiniD1CK5's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    In before Spin-z comment.
    FUNCTION >FORM

    Randy Probst's take on the BRZ "it's like a BMW and a Lotus had a baby"

    "Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." -Colin Chapman

    "He who shall be last, shall be sideways and smiling"

  12. #27
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    Not sure what your talking about with the balancing lightweight crank. Honda cranks from the factory support a 12k rpm limit and 1500whp. So... Yea.. I rev my lsvtec to 9200 all day bouncing limiter. No problems. I've spun it to 11 by accident once. Its fine. I

  13. #28
    Member test Stevemode's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    I still can't figure out exactly what you're wanting the engine to do. Boosting a B20 doesn't make any sense.

  14. #29
    Member test hafast's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    To Start I just want that Torque number.

    B20

    • Power: 147 hp (110 kW) @ 6200 rpm
    • Torque: 133 lbft (180 Nm) @ 5500 rpm


    and it was free...

    vs



    B18



    • Power: 178 hp (133 kW) @ 7600 rpm
    • Torque: 128 lbft (174 Nm) @ 6200 rpm


    and its 1000+

    and many have boosted the B20 with success.

    In my mind I wish to end up 10-12 psi 280-320 *Shrug, GT28, 600CC injectors, I have an Exhaust already, Hopefully get this SIR I'm looking at in Calgary, it has a fancy ARC intake on it, it goes in for an INSPECTION for me on Friday. http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/c...ationFlag=true

    Fellow said something about rear bushings, but its a lowered EK... so if it comes back as the subframe is trashed because it was lowered, I may be looking again.
    Last edited by hafast; 03-25-2015 at 02:41 PM.
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  15. #30
    Senior Member test Tremblay's Avatar
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    Re: Request for Assistance: Bottom End Engine build

    You will need different pistons, ring gaps, piston to wall clearance, and exhaust for a turbo compared to NA. Like I said, its 2 different engine builds that you will pay for 2 times... you never seem to comment on that or what you are planning on doing, just jumping back and forth.

    You will never make even 200whp with a B20/B16 with 9.?:1 compression.

    I still have no idea what you are doing. Are you boosting this car or not?

    There is a reason the B18 is used 1000x more than the B20... you are ignoring all the facts just because you are saving $200 now by not finding a B18B bottom end to build instead of your soup can cylinder wall B20. Its a fact the walls are thinner on a B20 vs B18.

    Dont make another post unless it tells what EXACTLY you want to do with the engine THIS YEAR!

    If you want to be boosted this year. Say it. Dont talk about 250whp NA anymore
    If you are sticking with your B20. Say it.
    If you are sleeving the B20. Say it. Dont just say "Maybe"

    Also, give your max budget for the engine/turbo setup/whatever you want this year. As well as power goals this year.

    Take your time, do the math and more reading. Choose the path you want to go down and stick to it.

    If you are undecided on what you even want to do, how was this thread supposed to beneficial? The title of the thread is "Assistance building bottom end"
    Not "I have a B20 block, a B16 head and $5000 to spend, what do I do?"
    ALL THE HONDAS!!!

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